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Pedal the land of pirates
The Shimanami Kaido cycling route soars above waters once commanded by Japan's most powerful pirate dynasties. Discover the Murakami families—and the warrior-priestess who led their naval forces.
What’s the best way to cross waters once ruled by Japan’s most feared sea lords? By bike, obviously.
The Shimanami Kaidō cycling route soars above the Seto Inland Sea, connecting islands that once belonged to the Murakami Kaizoku—three notorious pirate families who made these waters their kingdom during Japan’s chaotic Warring States period (1467-1600). The Murakami weren’t your typical eyepatch-wearing raiders. They were sophisticated maritime dynasties who controlled trade routes and guided merchant ships through treacherous currents. Less Jack Sparrow, more naval traffic controllers with serious military muscle.
Of the three families, the Noshima Murakami built the most audacious headquarters of all: a castle constructed across two small islands in the middle of the sea. Noshima Castle used swirling currents as a natural moat while positioning the family perfectly to monitor every ship passing through (today, only ruins remain, still surrounded by those same powerful currents). Meanwhile, their cousins commanded other strategic chokepoints from island strongholds.
What made the Murakami so formidable was their mastery of the Seto Inland Sea’s complex tidal system. With only four natural entry points, water rushes in and out with dramatic force, creating whirlpools that could destroy any vessel. The Murakami turned this knowledge into power, becoming indispensable to anyone wanting safe passage—for a fee, of course.
Their influence extended beyond the waves. At Ōyamazumi Shrine, where warriors came to pray before battle, the Murakami forged deep connections with the island’s religious authorities.
It was from this sacred alliance that one of Japan’s most legendary figures emerged: Tsuruhime, a 16-year-old warrior-priestess who took command of Murakami naval forces when enemy clans threatened her island home. Known as Japan’s Joan of Arc, Tsuruhime showed that the Murakami’s strength came from more than just ships and swords.
Today, the Shimanami Kaidō transforms this former pirate kingdom into Japan’s most celebrated cycling route. The Murakami KAIZOKU Museum and Ōyamazumi Shrine still preserve their weapons and armor along the route—reminders that you’re riding the bridges that finally tamed the waters these maritime masters once ruled.
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